Since I had a whole collection of raindrop pillows that I made for my guest post over at fortunecookiez.be, I couldn’t but sew a cloud pillow as well.
A reversible one for that. Angry on one side, happy and sunny on the other side.
Do you want to make your own? You can find the free pattern below.
What do you need?
- Fleece fabric in 2 colours: white and grey
- Black and red embroidery thread, for the eyes and the mouth. For my first version I used flock film, but it doesn’t stick that well to fleece
- Pink felt: for the blushy cheeks
- Drawing chalk
- A small bar of soap
How to make it
- Print the pattern, cut it out, and glue the parts together.
- Place the pattern on the right side of the white fleece, with the printed side facing you, and use your chalk to draw it on the fabric.
- Add 1 centimeter seam allowance, and cut the fabric.
- Flip your paper pattern, with the printed side facing downwards. Place it on the right side of the grey fleece and use your chalk to draw it on the fabric.
- Add 1 centimeter seam allowance, and cut the fabric.
- Pin both parts together, right sides facing each other.
- Sew both parts together, but leave an opening at the bottom, so you can stuff your cloud.
- Clip the seams, and pay extra attention to the small corners.
- Turn, so the right side is now on the outside.
- Stuff your cloud.
- Fold the seams of the opening inwards, and sew closed using an invisible seam.
- Do the faces:
- Use the soap (or use chalk) to draw the faces on the cloud, then embroider over it.
- Take the pink felt and cut out 2 pink circles, and sew them on your cloud.
I prefer to sew the faces on when the pillows are already stuffed, since it gives me a better view of what the end result will look like. Downside is that some stuffing may come out again when you pull your needle through. But you can pick those off afterwards.
Rain comes and goes, especially in our little country. Not always fun. But when I saw this storm pass on fortunecookiez.be, I was willing to jump right in. So when they asked me to do a guest post with tutorial, I didn’t hesitate for one second.
What do you need?
- Something round to use as a template to draw the basic circle of your pattern. Think pots and pans, your coffee mug (if you want a small raindrop), your earmuffs, whatever you have lying around. Or you can act like a real professional and use a drafting compass
- A ruler, paper, pencil and scotch tape
- Some leftover fabric (size depends on how large a raindrop you want to make)
- For the eyes and mouth: flock film, embroidering thread, googly eyes, you name it
Draw the pattern
If you would like to draw the pattern yourself and make it whatever size you want, draw the pattern as described below. If you would like to use an existing pattern, you can download and print the big or the small pattern, and follow the description on how to cut the fabric further below.
- Take your round object and put it on your paper.
- Draw a circle around your object and cut out your circle.
- Fold your circle in four, so you can find the centre point.
- Use your scotch tape to tape the circle on a piece of paper, so you can draw the raindrop pattern on top of the circle.
- Measure the diameter and extend the diameter line on top of your circle.
- Divide the diameter by two (yes, the radius) and indicate this number on the extended line, measured starting from the edge of the circle.
- Draw to lines from the new point towards the side of the circle, to create the raindrop.
- Cut the pattern.
Cut your fabric
- Fold your fabric, right sides facing each other.
- Put your pattern on the fabric and pin in place.
- Draw around your pattern, and draw a 1-centimeter seam as well.
- Mark where the opening should come to stuff your raindrop. This should be at the bottom of your raindrop, about 7 centimeters wide.
- Cut your fabric.
You now have two fabric raindrop parts.
Pin and sew
- Place both fabric parts on top of each other, right sides facing each other.
- Sew together. Don’t forget to keep the opening at the bottom of your raindrop.
- Clip the seams, and don’t forget the tip of the raindrop.
- Turn your fabric, so the right sides are on the outside. Don’t forget to take good care of the tip.
- Fold the seams of the opening inwards, and sew closed with an invisible stitch.
There are a zillion ways to add a face to your raindrop. I used flock film, embroidery thread and googly eyes.
Avoid getting addicted
Making raindrops goes so fast, that soon you’ll have a complete thunderstorm on your hands.
But no worries, every cloud has its silver lining.
I already put some clothes on the e-readers in this house, but the tablet we got as a gift when we subscribed to our newspaper has been lying around very naked. Time for action.
New cover, again based on the pattern by Eva Maria, but with a magnetic strip and a camera hole.
What do you need?
- A piece of fabric (size depends on the size of your tablet) and matching (or contrasting) thread
- Coloured elastic band
- Ruler, scissors, cutter
- Magnetic foil (I bought mine at De Banier, but if anyone knows where to find strong magnetic fold, let me know, since this one is not aggressive enough for me)
Get your cardboard ready
- Measure your tablet: length, width and thickness.
- Add 1 centimeter to each measurement. Meaning: length + 1 cm, width + 1 cm, thickness + 1 cm
- Get the cardboard, and cut out the following pieces:
- The back
- The side
- The front
- Another side
- The flap to close the whole cover. This is about 1/3 or 1/4 of the width of the tablet. Make it as wide as you want, but make sure it’s wide enough to cover the lens, so it’s protected when your tablet is in your bag.
You now have 5 pieces of cardboard.
- Take your tablet and measure where the lens is.
- Take the backside cardboard piece and indicate where the lens is. Don’t forget that the cardboard is 1 cm wider and longer than your tablet while doing so. Cut out the camera hole, leaving enough room at the side. I cut out a square of roughly 2 by 2 cm, but you could just as well make it round. Place your tablet on the cardboard, to double-check if you made the hole in the correct place.
Cut your fabric
In total, you need 3 pieces of fabric, and 1 piece of interlining (if you want to add that). To get the size of each piece right, use your cardboard as follows:
- Take the backside cardboard piece and place it on your fabric. Draw around it, then add a 1-cm seam. This piece of fabric will be on the inside of the cover, the piece to which you attach the elastic.
- Place the remaining 4 pieces of cardboard on your fabric, next to each other. Leave a bit of opening between each of the pieces, since you will need to be able to stitch in between them. Draw around all the pieces, then add a 1-cm seam. This piece of fabric will be on the inside of your cover.
- Now place all 5 pieces of cardboard next to each other on your fabric, while leaving a bit of opening between them as you did in step 2. Draw around all the pieces, then add a 1-cm seam. This will make up the outside of your cover.
- Use the cut-out fabric from step 3 as a pattern for your interlining, and add the interlining when you stitch the outside and the inside of the cover together.
Add the magnetic foil
You now have all the necessary pieces of cardboard (with camera hole!) and you have your fabric ready, so you can stitch up your cover the way Eva Maria describes it. Just don’t forget to attach the magnetic foil to the cardboard before you insert it into the fabric. Do so as follows:
- Cut 2 strips of magnetic foil, each about 3 cm wide (I kept the original lenght of the foil itself).
- Attach the magnetic foil to your cardboard. You need to do so in 2 places:
- On the cardboard for the back of your cover
- On the cardboard for the flap
- If you use interlining, make sure you place the foil so that there’s only fabric in between the 2 pieces of foil when you close the cover (no interlining, or the foil won’t be powerful enough to keep the cover closed)
Make the camera hole
When you have finished your cover, all that’s left is the camera hole. Be warned, it’s fussy to finish!
- Take your scissors and make a hole in your fabric where your camera hole will be.
- Carefully cut the hole towards the corners, but stop at about 2 mm from the actual corner (as you would do for a welt pocket).
- Repeat on the other side.
- Fold the cut edges inwards on both sides, and pin them together.
- Sew closed with an invisible stitch.
- Finish in the same way as you would finish a button hole by hand.
And now, let’s take some pictures!
This baby bouncer chair is a hand-me-down. I got it from my cousin, and she in turn got it from a friend. Good stuff. But the original cover has some spots that I’m just not able to wash out. So there was a challenge waiting to be accepted.
So I got going. With pencil, paper, measuring tape and a geometry triangle. And the original cover, of course.
And this was the result:
Reversable, of course, just like the original cover (something I only found out after I’d already started making this new cover. Little did I know I could just hide all the spots by reversing that thing 😉 )
If you’re interested in how to do this, here’s a tutorial:
What do you need?
- Pattern paper
- Pencil (and rubber, you never know)
- Measure tape
- Geometry triangle
- 2 pieces of fabric with matching thread
- 6 buttons
How to draw the pattern?
The cover consists of the following parts:
- the back
- the seat
- the belt
- the bottom part
- the tabs onto which you’ll attach the buttons
- Put the cover on your pattern paper and use your hands to flatten it as much as possible.
- Trace the upper part of the cover with your pencil.
Note:You may have to rearrange the cover as you do so, to even out the curvy bottom part as much as possible.
- Connect the bottom ends with a straight line and cut the pattern out.
- Fold the pattern in half, then cut it in half.
- Check which of the two halves matches the back the best.
- Use the best matching part and place it on the cover with the centre exactly on the centre seam and the bottom exactly on the bottom seam.
- Adapt your pattern until it’s exactly right. Check each change you make. When you are absolutely sure that your pattern matches the cover, check it once more.
Draw the pattern for this part in the same way as you have drawn the back.
- Place the belt on your pattern paper and trace it with your pencil. Trace around the buckles as well, so they’ll be part of the pattern.
- Fold the pattern in half, then cut it in half.
- Draw button holes as follows:
- in the middle of the horizontal end, at 1,5 cm (0.6 in) from the side
- on the centre seam, at 1,5 cm (0.6 in) from the bottom edge
The bottom part
Draw a rectangle measuring 83 cm x 25.5 cm (32.5 in x 10 in)
The tabs onto which you’ll attach the buttons
Draw a rectangle measuring 5.5 cm x 10 cm (2.2 in x 4 in)
How to sew the cover
Cut all pattern pieces as follows:
- Back: on the fold, 1in each fabric, once in fiberfill, add 1 cm (0.4 in) seam allowance
- Seat: on the fold, 1 in each fabric, once in fiberfill, add 1 cm (0.4 in) seam allowance
- Belt: on the fold, 1 in each fabric, once in fiberfill, add 1 cm (0.4 in) seam allowance
- Bottom part: 1 in each fabric, seam allowance included
- Tabs: 4 in 1 of your fabrics, seam allowance included
Iron interlining on the wrong sides of the tabs and the belt.
- Pin the fiberfill for the back on the wrong side of one of the back parts.
- On the right side of the fabric, draw a vertical line in the centre of the back. On each side of this line, measure 5 cm (2 in) and draw a new line. Repeat until you’ve reached the sides of your pattern.
- Repeat steps 1-3 for the seat, but draw the lines horizontally and start at 5 cm (2 in) from the upper side.
- At the bottom centre of the back, using a big stitch, stitch 2 lines of approximately 10 cm (4 in). Do not secure your thread and leave quite some thread on both ends, so you can easily use it to wrinkle.
- Repeat step 5 for the seat, wrinkling the curvy part.
- Pin the back on the seat, right sides facing each other and wrinkled parts against each other, so you create a seat already.
- Fold the tabs in the width, right sides facing each other. Sew the long sides.
- Turn the tabs so the right side is on the outside. Iron flat and stitch along the sides.
- Pin the tabs on the right side of the back that’s lined with fiberfill. Make sure they are pointing inwards. Pin a tab on both sides of the back and one at bottom of the seat, in the middle. Check the correct positions with the original cover.
- Pin the bottom part on the seat, right sides facing each other. Sew together.
- Repeat steps 5-7 for the remaining parts. Pin the tab you have left on the bottom of the seat, in the middle, and repeat step 11.
- Pin the belt parts on top of each other, right sides facing each other. Sew together, but make sure you leave a hole to turn the whole thing through.
- Turn the belt so the right side is on the outside. Sew the hole closed using a blind stitch.
- Sew the button holes on the belt.
- Turn the cover so the right side is on the outside. Sew the buttons on the tabs.
Note: The tabs on the sides need a button on each side.
- Finish the hem (2 cm / 0.8 in).
Finished! Doesn’t that look a lot better than the original spotty cover? Careful, though. The original cover secures your baby with a special system. On Justina Maria Louisa’s blog
, I saw she used buckle belts. I’m not too big a fan of these, since I always get my fingers in between (that’s why my camera bag is never closed properly). I certainly wouldn’t want to get my boy’s fingers caught in them either. So I chose to use plain old buttons. Works fine, but make sure to always tug the belt a bit, so it’s really tight around the button. I wouldn’t want to see my boy bouncing around the room without his bouncing seat.
What you need
- A onesie (or any other piece of clothing), neatly washed and dried
- Flock film in any colour you like
- A cutting board
- An art knife
- A printed-out graphic
- Scotch tape
- A pen, preferably one that writes on smooth surfaces
- A hot iron and an iron board
- A (clean) hanky
How to pimp your onesie
- Using the cutting board and art knife, cut out the graphic.
Note: You can also do this using a pair of scissors.
- Place your graphic on the shiny side of your flock film.
Note: Put it on there in the same way as you want to see it on the onesie, no mirror image needed.
- Use Scotch tape to attach your graphic to the flock film, so it won’t move.
- Optional: Trace your graphic with a pen.
- Cut along the edges of the graphic.
See how fast I’m cutting!
- Iron your onesie so the surface where you want to add the graphic is smooth and wrinkle-free.
- Place the flock film graphic on your onesie, shiny side up.
- Place your hanky on top of your graphic.
- With your iron on full heat, iron for approximately 30 seconds, applying gentle pressure while doing so.
- Let your onesie cool down completely.
- Gently remove the shiny plastic film
- Finish by ironing the inside of your onesie.
Always double-check that the shiny side is up before you iron the flock film on. If not, you might end up with a very fancy hanky, as I did.
- Machine wash warm, water temperature should not exceed 40°C or 105°F
- Use washing powder only, no liquids
- Wash and iron inside out
- Do not tumble dry
- Do not bleach or dry-clean
When my mom found out I was pregnant, she went digging into hidden family history boxes. You know, like the ones in the movies, where they wipe away a thick layer of dust before they open them, ready for a trip down memory lane. At least, that’s how I picture how it happened. Up she came, with some teeny tiny baby clothes my brother and I used to wear.
I fell in love with these clothes immediately. Talk about vintage! Part of the treasure were these cute light blue pants.
Only problem: their elastic waistband had lost the meaning of the word ‘elastic’. But that was a problem that could quickly be solved.
- Seam ripper
- Sewing machine
- Special needle to pull elastics through tunnels or safety pin
How to replace the elastic waistband
- Measure the height of the waistband. You’ll need an elastic that’s a few millimeters smaller than that.
Example: For these pants, the waistband is 1 cm, so I used an elastic that was 8 mm wide.
- With your seam ripper, tear up the stitching for about 2 cm.
- Cut the old elastic and remove it.
- Measure how long the new elastic should be. The easiest way to do this is to wrap it around the waist of the person you’re changing it for. Don’t forget to stretch it out as it would be when they wear the garment. Add about 2 cm extra and cut the elastic.
- Pull your elastic through the special needle, or pin your safety pin through it.
- Slide your special needle or safety pin into the opening you made, and gently slide it further through the waistband tunnel.
Careful: Make sure you don’t pull it through completely, keep hold of the end so you will be able to join both ends.
- Fold the ends over each other.
- Stitch the ends with your sewing machine.
- Tug your waistband, so the elastic goes in it completely.
- Close the gap you made, either by hand or with your sewing machine.
There you have it, one very vintage pair of baby pants ready to be worn.
And of course there is a matching shirt (also from that dusty box of memories) and hairdo 🙂
One happy vintage baby, who’ll grow as strong as his uncle.
Using a blind hem stitch is the best way to hem garments without stitches being visible. You might be able to do so using your sewing machine, if you have the right presser foot. But keep in mind that you can only use your machine for heavy fabrics. If you do so for lighter fabrics, you will still see stitches on the outer side of your hem.
In my opinion, the best way to sew a blind hem is doing it by hand. It takes longer, but it looks better. And, on top of that, it’s also a great excuse to what, say, Grey’s anatomy while doing it 😉
Before you start, you need to make sure that you have prepared your garment well:
- Turn your garment inside out.
- Iron your hem. Make sure that you have at least 0,5 centimeters/0,2 inches hem allowance left (on the inside of your garment).
- Fix your hem with pins.
- Get your needle and thread ready. Since this is going to be a blind hem, you can use any colour of thread you like, but I prefer to get a colour that is very similar to the garment. Don’t use too long a thread, or it will get tangled. 50 centimeters/20 inches should do the trick.
Do the hem
- Start at a seam. This gives you a better overview of your progress. For trousers, for instance, I always start at the inner leg seam.
- Fold the upper bit of the hem allowance towards you and hold it in place with your thumb.
- Make a few local stitches to fix your thread.
- In the folded-over hem allowance, gently pick up a fibre and pull your needle through.
Note: As you may be able to see in the picture, I’m left-handed. The right-handed way looks exactly the same way, except that your needle point will look the other way.
- In the garment itself, pick up a fibre and pull your needle through.
- Repeat steps 4 to 5 until you have completed the hem.
- When you have completed the hem, make a few local stitches to fix your thread.
The result looks as follows:
Once you fold the hem allowance back in place and turn your garment outside in, no stitches will be visible at all.
The edge stitch is something I’ve always found very hard. Either I just stitched next to the garment, or I was swirling instead of stitching right. So I asked my teacher how to do this best. And actually, it’s quite easy, I don’t know why I never thought of it myself.
- Make sure that your needle is in the middle of your presser foot.
- Now, the second step depends on the type of presser foot you have. In general, you will have to place your garment with its edge in the middle of the smaller part between the middle of the presser foot and the right presser foot toe, looking like this:
Now, it may be possible that the middle part of your presser foot is not smaller, like mine. You can then still aim at the middle between the middle and the right toe, looking like this:
- Stitch gently, while keeping your eye on the middle of the right toe.
You’ll be amazed at the result: tada!