Hoe brei je intarsia in het rond

Als je het internet afschuimt voor informatie over intarsia in het rond breien, word je meestal verteld dat het onmogelijk is. Het grote probleem als je het toch probeert: je contrasterende garen zit op het einde van je rij, als jij weer aan het begin moet beginnen. Problematisch.

Als je je graag aan de breiregels houdt, moet je er dus mee leren leven: intarsia in het rond is niet mogelijk. Als je ’t daarentegen niet erg vindt om aan het experimenteren te slaan, dan kan je dit probleem wel oplossen. Op 2 manieren zelfs:

  • de omslagmethode
  • de Fair Isle methode
Beide methodes worden hieronder uitgelegd.

De omslagmethode

  1. Brei in het rond tot je de laatste rij voor je aan je intarsia patroon moet beginnen gebreid hebt.
  2. Begin aan de volgende rij en brei het intarsia patroon zoals je bij een recht stuk zou doen. Brei tot het einde van je rij.
  3. Draai je werk, zodat je de verkeerde kant voor je hebt.
  4. Maak een extra steek door een omslag te maken.
  5. Omdat je nu aan de verkeerde kant van je werk breit, moet je de rest van je steken averecht breien, net als wanneer je niet in het rond breit. Brei de laatste steek van je rij niet.
  6. Brei de laatste steek van je rij nu averecht samen met de omslag die je aan het begin van de rij gemaakt hebt. Hierdoor brei je het gat tussen de twee helften dicht. Trek je draad goed aan.
  7. Draai je werk, zodat je de goede kant weer voor je hebt.
  8. Maak een omslag aan het begin van de rij.
  9. Gezien je nu weer aan de goeie kant van je werk breit, brei je de rest van de rij recht, net als je bij een recht werk zou doen. Brei de laatste steek van je rij nog niet.
  10. Brei de laatste steek van je rij recht verdraaid samen met de omslag die je aan het begin van de rij gemaakt hebt. Dit doe je door je naald door de achterkant van de lussen te steken.
  11. Herhaal stap 3 tot en met 10 tot je het hele intarsiapatroon gebreid hebt.
  12. Brei verder in het rond zoals je normaal zou doen.

Voor en nadelen

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Je kan intarsia breien zoals je normaal zou doen: met aparte draad per kleur
  • Je hebt een naad in je werk
  • Je moet heen en weer breien op een rondbreipatroon

Voorbeelden van hoe zo’n naad eruit ziet

yarn over seam yarn over seam 2

Voorbeelden van hoe het intarsiawerk eruit ziet

Aan de buitenkant Aan de binnenkant
Outside yarn over method Inside yarn over method

De Fair Isle methode

  1. Brei in het rond tot je de laatste rij voor je aan je intarsia patroon moet beginnen gebreid hebt.
  2. Begin met je contrastkleur te werken, maar in plaats van een apart stukje draad te gebruiken per stukje dat in de contrastkleur gebreid wordt, gebruik je slechts 1 stukje draad per kleur. Vergeet niet om de draden te kruisen als je van kleur wisselt, om gaten in je werk te vermijden. Als je de contrastkleuren niet gebruikt, draag je ze mee achter het werk door ze elke 2 à 3 steken even rond je hoofdgaren te slaan. Net zoals je zou doen bij Fair Isle breiwerk.
    Opmerking: Trek je draad niet te hard aan, anders haal je de rek uit je werk. Laat je draad echter ook niet te los hangen, anders krijg je gaten in je werk. Om een goed evenwicht te vinden, zorg je er best voor dat je je steken op je naald even ver uit elkaar kan rekken als wanneer je met slechts 1 kleur aan het breien zou zijn. Even oefenen, je komt er wel.
  3. Als je aan het einde van je rij komt, knip je de contrastdraad door. Laat daarbij wel voldoende draad hangen om in te stoppen als je werk klaar is.
  4. Brei verder in het rond, en voeg telkens een draad in contrastkleur aan je werk toe op het moment dat je die nodig hebt. Draag de contrastkleur altijd mee achter je werk. Brei tot je aan het einde van je rij komt.
  5. Herhaal stap 3 tot en met 4 tot je het hele intarsiapatroon gebreid hebt.
  6. Brei verder in het rond zoals je normaal zou doen.

Voor- en nadelen

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  • Geen naad
  • Je kan je rondbreipatroon volgen zoals normaal
  • Je draagt de contrastkleur mee achter je werk, wat ingaat tegen de intarsiaregel.
  • Voor elke rij die je breit in intarsia, moet je 2 eindjes instoppen. Dit kan oplopen tot een serieus aantal eindjes!

Voorbeelden van hoe het eruit ziet

Aan de buitenkant Aan de binnenkant
Outside stranded intarsia method Inside stranded intarsia method

Ik heb beide methodes zelf geprobeerd, en ik persoonlijk geef de voorkeur aan de Fair Isle methode.

 

Nu is het aan jou! Als je zelf al een van deze methodes gebruikt hebt, of als je een andere methode kent, laat mij zeker weten wat je ervan vindt, en welke je favoriet is.

 

It’s going to be Legen – wait for it – dary!

Any of you watch How I met your mother? I didn’t know the show at all until a couple of months ago. But then, from one day to the other, I was hooked. My husband and I watched all 6 series in just a few weeks time. And we’re very much looking forward to the next season!

Our favourite is Barney. So, I thought I’d dedicate a pair of socks to him. As you can see, they are…

It's going to be legendary!

…wait for it…

It's going to be legendary!

That’s right, legendary!

It's going to be legendary!

So suit up!

What I liked
I did intarsia in the round! I used the yarnover method on one pair, but as discussed for my granddad’s socks, they leave a seam.

It's going to be legendary!

For the second sock I tried my own method, which is a bit of intarsia mingled with stranded knitting. I’m working on a tutorial now and hoping to publish it soon!

Pattern
I knitted the ‘legen’ pattern over the 34 stitches that made up the front leg of the sock. The ‘dary’ pattern only took up 29 stitches, so I added 5 extra background-coloured stitches to the sides, to make it end up in the middle.

It's going to be legendary!

If you like it, you can download the pdf, or you can also find it on Ravelry. Don’t forget to visit my sponsors on the right, thank you 🙂

It's going to be legendary!

Materials used

  • yarn: Drops Fabel
  • needles: 2.5 dpns
Sock pattern (in Dutch):
Legendary chart: 

Birthday socks

My granddad turned 80 years old yesterday. Happy birthday to him! Of course I paid him a visit, and I ate more cake and waffles than I should have done. But they were good!

As a present, I knitted him some personal birthday socks. Since we call him ‘pepe Fons’, I made him socks that said just that.

Birthday socks

And I added the number 80 as well.

Birthday socks

For the characters, I just took out some checked paper and coloured the boxes to get the words and the numbers right. What I needed next, was a basic pattern for toe-up socks. I found a really great one, in Dutch. It comes with a table that gives you a clear overview of all measurements and stitches you need for each size and leaves you space to fill them in in the pattern as well, so you don’t need to check the table all the time. It uses a reinforced heel, which may be for the best for my granddad’s socks. Maybe that means less repair work for me, since I usually darn his socks.

To do the characters, I used intarsia. I know they say it cannot be done in the round, but I chose to browse the web and see whether that was true or not. And you know what, you can do intarsia in the round! You need to use yarn-overs and then knit those together again, and you do see a slight seam, but it works!

Birthday socks

And be honest, if you didn’t know it was there, you wouldn’t see it at all, right? I feel another tutorial coming 🙂

Biker boy cardigan

There goes my first cardigan! I’m very pleased with the result, it looks great, if I say so myself. I’m convinced my husband will actually wear it more than the one obligatory time. So that is one marriage saved!

Biker boy cardigan

What I liked
It’s a plain stockinette stitch. I know a lot of people are put off by projects like that because they think it gets very boring, but I don’t. For me, it means relaxed knitting, without having to think about the pattern too much. I could sit back, knit, and enjoy numerous episodes of Grey’s anatomy. And Weeds. And The Big Bang Theory. In other words, it makes a great excuse for my couch potato syndrome 🙂

The sleeves are knit in. No fussing about afterwards to get them exactly right, the pattern forces you to get them in where they need to be. And the way it’s done looks so nice. This definitely is a way of knitting that I hope to encounter more.

Biker boy cardigan

The neck is finished so it has a lining. Extra thick and extra warm. It gives it a cozy look. I actually like wearing it myself. Too bad it’s way too large for me.

Biker boy cardigan

There’s hardly any seams to close up afterwards. The only ones there are in the bottom half of the sleeves, next to the vertical stripe. And I guess you can avoid these as well by doing the whole sleeve in the round, instead of knitting flat and then joining. Maybe something I’ll do next time!

Rough patches
Casting on stitches for the sleeves was a bit of a mystery at first. Since there is a vertical stripe in them, I needed to change colours at one point. It puzzled me, and I really didn’t have a clue how to do it. While, in fact, it’s not that difficult at all. Just like you do when you need to switch to a new ball or when you are working intarsia, you need to twist the old yarn with the new yarn, and then move on as if nothing ever happened. Just make sure to twist it rather tightly, since this is the edge of your sleeve.

Biker boy cardigan

The skull patch was a bit difficult as well, but, once again, that was completely my fault. I didn’t know what technique to use, so I started doing stranded knitting. Not the best choice. It looked like a skull, but I had been pulling my yarn too tightly and it made the patch look rather lumpy instead of straight. So I frogged it and started over, doing intarsia this time. Way better.

Biker boy cardigan

Not really a rough patch, but certainly a time consumer: getting the zipper in. The pattern says to wash the cardigan first, before you measure it for a zipper. And then I still had to get to the store to get the zipper. And then, of course, get my sewing machine out to get the zipper in.

What I altered
This pattern has really long sleeves, so I added thumbholes to them. My hubby wanted them, and I thought it was a great idea. Unfortunately, it wasn’t as simple as just leaving a hole while doing the seam of the sleeve. Because both sleeves are knit in exactly the same way and because this also involves a vertical stripe, the seam ends up in a different place when you get the sleeves in. So, for the right sleeve, I could just leave a bit of the seam open to get a thumbhole. But for the left sleeve, the seam ended up slightly to the back. So, to get the thumbhole right, I had to steek. That’s right, I had to cut my hard work! I’ll explain how I did that in a separate post. I must say it made me a little bit nervous, but once I saw the result, I knew it was worth it. I’m never doubting the steek method again.

Biker boy cardigan

All in all, knitting this cardigan took me about 1,5 months. I was really motivated to get this right and I concentrated on this project alone. It was quite addictive as well, I wanted to pick up my needles to get on with it almost all the time. At first I thought it would take me forever, with the renovations in the new house and everything. But now I think that I needed a project that’s not related to that house in any way, just to get my mind off it. And it sure worked! I should pick out another cardigan or sweater to knit soon. Maybe for myself this time, haha.

Biker boy cardigan

Lucha libre balaclava

Last Sunday, my friend Reinout celebrated his birthday. As a present, he wanted to have a balaclava. Given the low temperatures and snow we had here lately, that wasn’t so bad an idea. So I got out my knitting needles, took out Debbie Stoller’s Son of Stitch ’n Bitch and started working the Lucha Libre balaclava.

What I liked about it
This one is a fast knit. I only started it at the beginning of December, and I got along quite fast.

It’s also a great way to practice your intarsia technique. Or should I call it intangledsia?

Lucha libre

Now, I know this looks like some kind of nightmare, but in fact, it’s not that bad. If you are knitting intarsia, you do not drag your yarn along behind the work. Instead, you use a new strand of yarn every time you change colour. So in fact, it’s a bit like a puzzle. Of course, while knitting, these strands get a little tangled, as shown in the picture. But untangling it all is a bit of a puzzle as well, and, to be honest, I don’t mind it all that much. Weaving the untangled ends in is a bit more tiresome, though.

Rough patches

As I said, I wasn’t too wild about weaving the ends in. All in all, it took me a few hours to do so. I guess you just need to put your mind to it. Brace yourself for the fact that you won’t be knitting that night, but you’ll be weaving. And all in all, the end result wouldn’t look as nice as it does when you leave all the ends just dangling about.

Lucha libre balaclava

I was also a bit surprised that this mask was knit flat, and not in the round. Since you have a center back seam, it seemed so obvious and less tedious to do it in the round. But then I just read today that it’s not that simple to do intarsia in the round. Since you leave your coloured ends dangling and then pick them up again on the next row, it’s important that you knit back and forth. If you do it in the round, your yarn will always be on the other end of your colour patch. Not that handy. So flat it is.

I’m quite happy with the result. It’s nice and warm, and it looks a lot more friendly than your average balaclava. If the person wearing it is laughing, that is. If not, it actually looks quite scary.

So I gave the balaclava to Reinout last Sunday. The best day, since it had been snowing again. We immediately went out to test it.

Lucha libre balaclava

It passed the sleighing and snowball fight test. Not only did it keep Reinout’s head warm, but his nose and ears as well. And no children started crying or screaming when he went by. All that’s still left to do is the cycling test: does the wind cut through it, or not? Let’s hope it doesn’t.